Perpignan is located on the southern edge of the Pyrenees, near the Mediterranean Sea and just before the Spanish border. Most people probably drive past it on their way to or from Spain. But is it worth stopping there?
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Intro and travel report
Last autumn, we went on a long trip in our motorhome. We fled the persistent heat in Spain as quickly as possible, heading north.
The small, winding coastal road over the Pyrenees is very scenic, but not easy to drive with a motorhome. Yes, we could have taken the motorway, but we wanted to see more of the Pyrenee Mountainss.
With much more pleasant temperatures than in Spain, we find a parking space near Argeles-sur-Mer. The Plage de la Marende welcomes us and we immediately feel at home.
The Pyrenees mountain range can be seen in the background. Soft white sand caresses our feet and the sea is peaceful – what a beautiful evening.
The next day we drive to Perpignan. I had read about the Palais des Rois de Majoque and wanted to see it for myself. In the 13th century, the kings of Majorca actually ruled here. Their domain also included the Roussillon region and the city of Montpellier.
At that time, this part of southern France was still Spanish and belonged to the House of Aragon! Numerous signs and plaques along the way remind us of this.
The palace occupies a large part of the old town and forms its centre. Judging by the photos on the website, it is definitely worth seeing. Unfortunately, it was closed for renovation work in late autumn, so I could only walk around it from the outside.
However, this is uninteresting because there is nothing to see except smooth brick walls. Next time, I will definitely take a look at it! Information about the palace, the city and its sights can be found here: https://www.perpignantourisme.com/.
This gives us even more time to wander through and explore the old town. We parked the motorhome on the northern side of the Tet River at the Parc des Expositions. A bus takes us into the city centre, which is very convenient.
The former city ring road is lined with large, old plane trees. We see a park and cafés and stroll to the beautiful old city gate, the Porte Notre Dame, which is directly adjacent to a small fortress, the Castillet de Perpignan.
A pedestrian zone takes us to the Loge de Mer de Perpignan, apparently the merchants’ guild hall. Perpignan is not directly on the sea, but very close to it. The building is very pretty and the architectural style actually looks Spanish. A few metres further on, in the same building, is the mayor’s office.
I don’t have an appointment with the mayor today, so I just admire the beautiful building and the lovely courtyards.
The old town of Perpignan has many pedestrian zones, which makes strolling and shopping in the numerous boutiques and shops very pleasant. The alleys are narrow and the houses tall, so there is always plenty of shade on the streets.
I realise how pleasant this is when I find a free seat and the autumn sun greets me with surprising warmth. This is the Place de la Republique, a large square in the heart of the old town, where there are numerous restaurants and cafés.
It’s lunchtime and the terraces are full of people. We find a very nice little café nearby. Just a few tables on a small square – in the shade!
After a delicious lunch and another stroll through the old town, we take the bus back to our motorhome and continue our journey.
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Conclusion
So, is Perpignan worth a visit? I think so! The old town has some very pretty neighbourhoods and the Palace of the Kings of Majorca is definitely worth seeing. I can definitely recommend Perpignan for a stopover of several hours or even an overnight stay.
I don’t want to hide the fact that Perpignan also has some less attractive neighbourhoods, which I stumbled upon while wandering around the palace. Some of the houses and streets there were in poor condition.
I also don’t want to hide the fact that traffic on the French Mediterranean coast is far less relaxed than on the Atlantic coast. People drive fast here, honk their horns a lot, and if you’re not careful, you’ll quickly find yourself in narrow alleys and one-way streets.
This can be quite stressful, not only for motorhomes, and I highly recommend the park-and-ride facilities, which we used. You can then enjoy the beautiful old town on foot without any worries!
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Image credits Cover image: Porte Notre-Dame and Castillet (Photo: Ulrich Knüppel-Gertberg)
