Metz is a surprise – in three ways: location, location, location! What sounds like an estate agent’s slogan certainly applies to entire cities as well…
Intro and travel report
We Germans love our Moselle. A tranquil river, surrounded by steep slopes where wonderful vines thrive. Idyllic and definitely a lovely holiday destination.
But did you know that the Moselle rises in the Vosges and flows through France for a good half of its 544 kilometres before joining the Rhine near Koblenz?
I didn’t know that before. And I didn’t know either that the river flows right through the centre of Metz.
And not just once, but several times, as it flows through the city in several branches alongside the main channel.
And not only that, it defines the cityscape, which in some places looks a bit like a miniature Venice. Well, a small one, but still!
We’ve whizzed past Metz on the motorway many times, on our way to Ireland or the British Isles.
But we’ve never stopped here, as Metz is too close to our home (Baden-Baden) to be a suitable stopover.
Meine Frau hatte jedoch irgendwo gehört, dass es dort angeblich eine reizende Altstadt geben sollte, und so legten wir dieses Mal, als wir mit unserem Wohnmobil unterwegs waren, einen ganz kurzen Zwischenstopp ein und übernachteten auf dem städtischen Wohnmobilstellplatz am Fluss.
And there were a few things that did take me by surprise:
Surprise number 1: The campsite is in a really lovely spot by the river and is also very central. You can walk to the city centre in just a few minutes.
Surprise number 2: The river is the Moselle – we’d already mentioned that, but I was still surprised. Above all, the Moselle is constantly in view, everywhere and time and again in the city centre, and it has a significant impact on the cityscape.
Surprise number 3: The countryside around Metz is really lovely. Hilly and green, with lots of woods. It’s situated somewhere between the Saarland, the Parc Naturel régional de Lorraine and the northern Vosges. Simply lovely! Actually, I could have mentioned this first – but never mind, I’m sure you’ll forgive me…
Surprise number 4: The town, with a population of no fewer than 122,000, immediately strikes you as cosy – more like a medium-sized town. And yes, the historic centre is certainly lovely!
Right, now I’ve given everything away again and could end the article right here…
But let’s take it easy with the young Mademoiselles and Moselles:
From the motorhome parking area, we walk in the direction we reckon is the town centre and find ourselves in the midst of crowds – or, to be more precise, crowds of children and teenagers spilling out of a huge school complex and making their way home, chattering merrily.
A few bends and metres further on, the chatter is just as loud: a small bridge spans a narrow stretch of river, leading to a tiny island. Along the riverbank, Nile geese and ducks are very busy – and very noisy.
The small island is flanked on both sides by the Moselle and is home to the Préfecture, the Opéra and the beautiful Temple Neuf church, one of the city’s most iconic photo spots.
The next church can already be seen on the opposite bank: the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Metz boasts late-Gothic splendour – yet remains surprisingly modest when it comes to the height of its towers.
And with that, we’ve already arrived in Metz’s old town: tall façades, some historic, some more recent, characterise the scene. Cobbled streets, narrow and wide alleys, and a welcome abundance of pedestrianised areas invite you to take a stroll.
Countless shops, cafés and restaurants are vying for customers’ attention. The whole place feels a bit touristy, but not too much.
Around us, we mainly hear French; we rarely hear other languages. Tourism in Metz is probably fairly limited – or perhaps it’s mostly fellow countrymen visiting the city.
That’s a bit of a shame, because we quite like the atmosphere here. A summer thunderstorm drives us from the cathedral square into a nearby café. The heavens open and pour down on the city.
Just one latte later, the situation has calmed down and we stroll past the large market hall through the pedestrianised areas and narrow alleyways, until we suddenly find ourselves by the river – again!
The Port de Plaisance is a small harbour where you can hire boats and where houseboats moor and stay overnight. The waterfront is lined with a lovely, green park, and it’s a wonderful place for a stroll right in the heart of the city.
There’s a lot going on at the jetty – it looks like the rowing club is holding a children’s training session at the moment. We pass loads of dog owners, joggers and walkers.
A little further back, on the opposite bank and near the Temple Neuf, we come across an artificial white-water kayaking course, also bordered by a lovely green park.
We take another stroll through the old town and then set off on our ‘journey home’ to our motorhome on the beautiful Moselle, which has been with us on and off all day today.
Conclusion
If you’re passing through Metz, do treat yourself to a break of a few hours or an overnight stay in this lovely town. The old town is well worth a visit, the atmosphere is cosy and the location is wonderful:
The setting in the hills of the nature park, the location by the lush Moselle River, and the beautiful old town with its charming pedestrianised streets!
By the way, you can find all the information about the city’s sights here: https://www.tourisme-metz.com/de/sehenswertes-und-aktivitaten.
And on that note, I hope you have a great time in Metz!
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Credit for cover photo: View of Temple Neuf in the beautiful city of Metz (Photo: Ulrich Knüppel-Gertberg
