The Isle of Skye is certainly one of Scotland’s greatest scenic highlights. The route there first takes you to one of the most impressive castles Scotland has to offer…
Intro and travel report
Yes, I’ve been to the Isle of Skye before and yes, there’s already an article about it – which I’ll link you to at the bottom. So why do the same thing again?
Because it’s not the same, because the first time I was there on my motorbike and this time my wife and I (and our dog of course!) were there in our camper van.
We travelled different routes, stayed at a remote campsite in a breathtakingly scenic location and gathered our own – and different – impressions.
But let’s start at the beginning – or somewhere in the middle – of our three-week round trip through Scotland: no matter where you come from and no matter where you go later, your route to the Isle of Skye leads over the bridge over Loch Alsh.
Unless you want to take the ferry from the mainland, from Mallaigvaig to Armadale on Skye. This is a good option if you are travelling from Glenfinnan Viaduct. Or you can island hop across the Outer Hebrides and cross from Tarbert to Uig on Skye. And there are probably other options.
But the bridge is certainly the easiest way to get to the island. I suspect that the Isle of Skye is not only an important and heavily promoted tourist destination in Scotland because of its beautiful landscapes, but also because it is so easy to get to.
A little way before the bridge, on the banks of the beautiful Loch Alsh, stands a castle which (like the Isle of Skye) is also one of the top Scottish sights: Eilean Donan Castle.
If you’re a fan of medieval films (like me) you’ll recognise it, as it has featured as a film set in Highlander, Bonnie Prince Charlie, Elizabeth, Prince Valiant. But it was also seen in the New Avengers and James Bond.
But this castle really is a dream! It stands on a rock, just off the shore. A bridge leads over the water (at high tide) or over mudflats and rocks (at low tide). The castle is well preserved, or rather restored, and is visited by many visitors every year.
And yes, it can get crowded here, as tour buses unload their guests in droves. If you don’t want to do that, you can skip the tour, park here anyway and take a stroll along the shore. The views of the castle, the loch and the mountains in the background are beautiful!
The original medieval castle was first built in the early 13th century as a sea fortress against the Vikings, who were still wreaking havoc in the north of Scotland.
Later it was the seat of the Lord of the Isles, whose kingdom stretched across the islands, with the sea as its main thoroughfare.
In the 16th and 17th centuries, the castle was involved in the Jacobite Wars and was badly damaged in the process.
It stood as a picturesque ruin on its small rocky island for 200 years until it was bought by a Scottish officer in 1911, who gradually rebuilt it over the next 20 years. Fortunately, otherwise we would not be able to admire it in all its splendour today!
The aforementioned bridge leads to the isle of Skye. From the top you have a marvellous view of the surrounding area! The A87 takes us along the coast for a while, through various villages and then up into the mountains.
Now, in early summer, the mountains of the Highlands are brown peaks, but in a few weeks’ time they will take on colour when fresh green ferns, purple heather and fresh grasses emerge.
We drive up the brown mountains under grey skies – not a blaze of colour, but that’s precisely why they look big, dark and melancholy – somehow beautiful too.
We leave the A87 at the old bridge in Sligachan and chug inland on ever smaller roads, always heading towards the west coast. The roads are getting smaller and smaller and our motorhome feels like it’s getting bigger and bigger…. doesn’t go well together, but that’s just the way it is now.
My wife says I shouldn’t queue up like that, there are delivery vans and lorries here too – but they’re used to it!
One more junction and then it becomes a single lane. At least there are passing bays and they are absolutely necessary so that oncoming cars can get past, especially our big lorry. It gets lonelier and lonelier in the rugged mountains.
The road is in pretty good condition as it leads to the Fairy Pools, a natural spectacle that is popular with hikers. This is probably reason enough to keep the road in good repair.
The latter makes it higher and higher, but by no means wider. Moorland soon follows on both sides of the narrow single-lane road. It’s getting dusky, drizzle makes visibility difficult and I can already see us tipping to one side and sinking into the bog.
Before I can put this idea into practice, I come across a few farms and then our destination for the night, the Glenbrittle campsite. It is situated on a hilly meadow, surrounded by high mountains and the dunes of a large sandy beach.
It couldn’t be nicer! So does our dog, who is finally allowed to play ball on the beach. We take a long walk around the extensive grounds and the beautiful beach and enjoy the view of the stunning mountains and the sea in front of us – and again the next morning because it was so beautiful.
Many hikers come here because that’s what people do here: climb mountains and hike! But it’s also beautiful!
And they come in camper vans, by car and tent, compact camper vans and roof tents on cars – every variation is represented and well distributed over the hilly, large site.
The return journey the next morning goes well, the light is better, it’s not raining and we don’t tip over on the moor – everything is fine!
P.s.: There are actually quite a few campervans that tip over on narrow roads in Scotland every year. Most of them probably go over the edge of the tarmac when manoeuvring and then sink in on one side. Gravity does the rest. It probably happens the same way in England and Ireland – so watch out!
Conclusion
The Isle of Skye is generally very popular in summer. We were here in early summer, before the school holidays. But whatever the time of year, it’s a good tip to get off the main A87 and explore the more remote parts of the island on small and tiny roads (maybe not in a motorhome that’s too big).
The island in general is really beautiful. The landscapes are absolutely marvellous and away from the tourist mainstream you can also enjoy the beautiful nature wonderfully. Probably even in midsummer.
Where should you go and what should you see? Honestly – it doesn’t matter – it’s beautiful everywhere on Skye!
More interesting articles for you
Coming soon…
Cover picture: On the beach at Glenbrittle (Photo: Ulrich Knüppel-Gertberg)
