Hills dotted with small old stone houses clinging to steep slopes, defiantly overlooking the valley. Below them, vineyards, orchards and cypress trees as far as the eye can see. We are in Provence. More precisely: in one of the most beautiful parts of Provence…
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Intro and travel report
The village of Gordes proudly bears the title ‘One of the most beautiful villages in Provence’. It is located in the Luberon Natural Park, which boasts magnificent low mountain ranges and wonderful valleys.
More precisely, it is the foothills of the French Alps that continue in chains of hills all the way to the Mediterranean Sea.
Gordes is located north of Aix-en-Provence and east of Avignon, right in the heart of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region. This is also where many of the picturesque lavender fields for which the area is famous are located.
However, they bloom from mid-June to mid-August. That is, in midsummer and during the school holidays, which we both like to avoid. We are here in late autumn.
The morning starts off very cool as we drive our unsuitably large motorhome up the narrow roads to the mountain.
Fortunately, we arrive early and there are still plenty of spaces available in the large car park at the entrance to the village. This is necessary because only residents or guests who have booked accommodation in the village are permitted to drive into it.
Even as we approach, we are left breathless: on the opposite side of the slope, small houses perch high on the steep mountainside.
The morning sun casts a pale light on the scene as it tentatively breaks through the clouds and battles against the mist that stubbornly clings to the mountainside.
We walk up the steep slope and suddenly find ourselves in the sunshine, which quickly fills the autumn day with surprising warmth.
The village is small. There are a few narrow streets in all directions, a small market square, a church, a monastery and a castle.
However, the latter was not built until the 11th century. The first fortifications here date back to Roman times.
In the past, agriculture fed the village. Even today, olive groves can be seen everywhere, as well as almond and fig trees. Later, the picturesque scenery attracted various artists, such as Marc Chagall. Today, it mainly lives off tourism.
Speaking of art: the many cat pictures on the colourful facades of the old houses are particularly striking!
We believe that many wealthy French people also have holiday homes here, as we admired many beautiful, modern, high-quality houses in the classic Provençal style.
In the past, people built with whatever materials were readily available, and in Provence, these were rough stones in yellowish and reddish earth tones. These are still used today, wonderfully preserving the style of this ancient village.
The small, steep alleys are quickly explored. There are a few lovely boutiques, art galleries and shops selling regional specialities.
Air-dried hams hang from the ceiling in one shop. A boulangerie tempts us with the most delicious treats, and in front of another shop we find spicy Provençal honey.
We try another route back, take a steep and long detour, and end up back on the main road. But the detour was worth it. For one thing, it covers today’s ‘exercise’ quota, and for another, it was simply beautiful!
The view from the elevated village into the surrounding area is also beautiful. Vineyards, olive groves, meadows and small fields lie before us like a colourful patchwork quilt. In the distance, a few farms and slender cypress trees add a special touch to the picture.
It’s lunchtime and the small village is filling up quickly. I take a few more photos and then we make our way back down the mountain. But it was cool!
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Conclusion
We have been on holiday to the Côte d’Azur and Provence several times and have enjoyed it very much each time. We like the area – we even prefer Provence to the Côte d’Azur.
But over the years, we have also noticed that the region is becoming increasingly crowded. Especially in summer. This is already extreme on the beaches of the Côte d’Azur, but it is even better inland.
But the tourist highlights, such as the perfume town of Grasse, which is beautiful, by the way, are then almost impossible to visit.
Many other picturesque villages and towns in Provence also fill up quickly. And I mean full, because the small mountain villages with their narrow streets usually have little space.
We were in Gordes in late autumn and were glad to have been there early in the morning, because by midday it was already getting crowded.
What might not be a problem with a car can be really stressful with a motorhome.
Our tip for Provence: In spring and autumn, it is nice and warm here, but not too hot, and it is much less crowded than in summer.
And if you start early enough, you can enjoy Gordes and other beautiful places in Provence in peace and quiet!
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Image credits Cover photo: The village of Gordes in Provence (Photo: Ulrich Knüppel-Gertberg)
