Last updated on January 10, 2025
If you’ve watched the TV series Poldark, then you’ve heard time and time again about the capital of Cornwall – Truro. We’ve seen the series and visited Truro…
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Intro – and our travel story
I don’t know yet in which order I will publish these articles, but there will be (at least) three articles about Cornwall: About Plymouth, the gateway to Cornwall, about our – and maybe soon your – journey through Cornwall, and about Truro, the beating heart of Cornwall. I’ll be talking about Truro today, but I’ll link you to the other two articles below.
Before I travel, I usually do a bit of research. Firstly, anticipation is half the fun and secondly, I like to have a rough idea of what I want to see. I hadn’t read much about Truro beforehand. But in Plymouth I had struck up a conversation with a coffee shop employee. He was from Cornwall and gave me a few tips along the way – including about Truro.
As is so often the case, that’s the best way to get good tips – ask the locals! So we travelled pretty much straight from Plymouth to Truro. Truro is not on the coast, like so many other beautiful places in Cornwall, but in the centre of the country. The small town is the administrative centre of Cornwall and the only town there that is called a city – everything else is a town or small town.
The journey through the hinterland alone was super beautiful. Hilly country accompanied us on a trunk road that didn’t run between the hills at all, but followed every valley and every mountain like a rollercoaster – up, down, up, down and again…I think you get the idea. Far beyond the pastures and hills, we could see the sea flashing through every now and then.
We found a visitor’s car park on the edge of the city centre and a few minutes’ walk later we arrived in the city centre, or first of all at a neatly lined-up collection of wooden houses decorated in a strange red and green. It was around mid-December and the Christmas Fair was slowly waking up in the morning. There would be a lot going on here later.
Long rows of historic houses loll in the morning sun. Most of them are made of yellowish sandstone, which gives the scenery a pleasantly warm colour. What a difference stone can make, the town looked friendly just because of it.
The impression continued: small, charming and winding alleyways, beautiful pedestrianised streets with small shops, a sculpture or statue here and there, other historical buildings that I didn’t know much about at the time and beautiful facades created by the expert hands of the old stonemasons adorn the town.
The absolute highlight, however, is Truro Cathedral – simply amazing! I’m not really a big fan of churches, but the cathedral can be seen from practically everywhere in the old town and magically attracts the eyes and the camera. Its façade is beautiful and it’s a joy to walk around it in amazement.
As I was doing this with my camera, I was approached by one of two men from the street department dressed in orange work clothes. He was proud of his cathedral and told me a bit about its history, and that a pair of falcons had nested on top of the tower for many years. Wow – listen to the locals!
The small old town filled with life, many families with seemingly endless numbers of children rushed off to do their Christmas shopping or simply wanted to spend a lovely day in the city centre. Not at all hectic, by the way, but with calm serenity everywhere.
A few hours and Christmas market sausages later, we continued our journey happily and contentedly towards the coast, to Falmouth. Truro was super nice!
Sightseeing in and around Truro
Truro Cathedral
Truro’s imposing neo-Gothic cathedral is one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks. Its striking towers and beautiful architecture are a must-see for any visitor. See: https://www.trurocathedral.org.uk.
Royal Cornwall Museum
A museum focussing on the history, culture and art of Cornwall. It offers exhibitions on the archaeology of the region, Victorian art and more. See: http://www.royalcornwallmuseum.org.uk.
Victoria Gardens
An idyllic Victorian-style park and garden. Very nice for a quiet break. See: https://www.visittruro.org.uk/local-parks-and-gardens/victoria-gardens.
Truro’s Historic Centre
With its narrow streets, historic buildings and charming shops, Truro’s historic centre is well worth a visit. The Pendennis and Lemon Street are particularly popular places for a stroll.
Trelissick House and Gardens
This old manor house with its beautiful garden belongs to the National Trust and is located a few kilometres south of Truro. See: https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/cornwall/trelissick.
Lamorran House Gardens
A beautiful garden near St Mawes with a variety of plant species and great views of the sea. Located just outside Truro on the south coast. See: http://www.lamorrangarden.co.uk.
Feock
A picturesque village at the mouth of the River Fal with a beautiful church. It lies a little way south of Truro. Not far from Trelessick Gardens and the King Harry Ferry.
Brief history of Truro
Truro is a small town in south-west Cornwall with a long history. The first settlements date back to the Bronze Age, when the region was colonised by early Celtic tribes. The name Truro probably comes from the Cornish words ‘Tri’ (three) and ‘Iver’ (estuaries), referring to the three rivers that converge in the area.
In the Middle Ages, Truro developed into an important trading centre, particularly in connection with the mining of tin, which was mined in the region. The city was granted the right to hold a weekly market in 1170, which boosted its economic development. In the 16th century, Truro continued to grow and the city was characterised by shipbuilding and the trade in ores and textiles.
In the 19th century, with industrialisation and the expansion of the railway, Truro experienced a further boom, particularly in connection with the flourishing mining industry. In 1876, Truro was elevated to city status. Today, Truro is the administrative centre of Cornwall and is best known for its cathedral, which was built in the neo-Gothic style and clearly characterises the cityscape, as well as its beautiful old town.
Practical travel tips for Truro
You can include Truro in your tour of Cornwall in any number of ways, as it really is at the heart of the county and is easily accessible from almost anywhere in Cornwall.
If possible, park outside the city centre area, where there are several car parks for visitors.
The city centre itself is very easy to explore on foot, it is a manageable size and it is great fun to walk through the various pedestrian areas and alleyways.
Conclusion
Even though most of the highlights of Cornwall are located on the beautiful coast, it is definitely worth making a detour inland to Truro. Here, in the heart of Cornwall, pulsates its heart – namely the capital of Cornwall.
The old town is a dream in warm yellow tones and the beautiful cathedral is the icing on the cake.
Incidentally, Cornwall is not very big and the diversions to Truro is therefore not long. So off to Cornwall (it’s worth it) and off to Truro (it’s worth it too)!
More interesting articles for you
TOURING CORNWALL
PLYMOUTH – GATEWAY TO CORNWALL
Cover picture: Historic building in Truro (Photo: Ulrich Knüppel-Gertberg)
