The River Shannon is not only Ireland’s longest river, but was also its lifeblood for many years. On the northern stretch of this river lies a small town – and it has plenty of charm…
Intro and travel report
Anyone wishing to explore the River Shannon by houseboat will find it hard to miss Carrick-on-Shannon, as there are plenty of boat hire companies and boats available to rent here. But even those with little interest in houseboats will enjoy this lovely town by the river.
Where exactly are we now? In County Leitrim in north-western Ireland, not far from the coast and the town of Sligo, and not far from the border with Northern Ireland either.
If you follow the Shannon-Erne Waterway northwards, you’ll come to the beautiful lakes of Upper and Lower Lough Erne; if you follow the Shannon southwards, you’ll pass through Athlone and eventually reach the mouth of the Shannon just beyond Limerick.
Incidentally, you can do both by boat or by car. Or, as we did in this case, in a motorhome. For a change, this journey doesn’t take you along the beautiful west coast, but through the heartlands of Ireland.
Travelling from south to north, you see a great deal of lush green countryside. The landscape is characterised by fairly flat terrain, interspersed with woods, reed beds, lakes and watercourses, and dotted here and there with lovely little villages.
Time seems to stand still here, in the heart of Ireland. Life is a calm, long river, just like the River Shannon. It meanders through the tranquil countryside, past ancient castles, churches and abbeys, past horses, cattle and countless sheep.
Time has little hold over it, for it is above such things. And with every kilometre and every hour, the river’s gentle rhythm seems to reach us too: our pulse slows, our breathing deepens and our gaze softens.
It’s lovely here by the river, with its floodplains, bends, tributaries and lakes. Numerous birds call this place home, either all year round or whilst passing through.
Various species of herons stand at the shallow water’s edge; swans, geese and ducks, cormorants and moorhens go about their business busily; many small birds I don’t even recognise flit through the impenetrable reeds; and even seagulls circle overhead, even though the coast is still a fair distance away.
Despite its tranquillity, the river is also full of life. For centuries, it was an important transport route. It carried all manner of goods and foodstuffs from north to south and, via additional canals, as far as Dublin and back.
Today, it is used almost exclusively by recreational boats of all kinds and is therefore still teeming with life. There is, therefore, a moderate level of water-based tourism on the Shannon.
The beautiful lakes along the river are a major attraction, particularly in summer, for Irish families and holidaymakers who come here to enjoy their weekends or holidays. Examples include the vast Lough Derg, Lough Ree and Lough Allen.
The latter is not far away at all, just a short distance north of the small town of Carrick-on-Shannon. As the name suggests, this little town has always thrived on the river.
In the past, it was fishing and trade; today, it is certainly also the houseboat rental business, with operators running large rental centres here on the upper reaches of the Shannon. In the large harbour at Carrick, you can see an incredible number of houseboats (cruiser boats) moored. And there is a second harbour, just a short distance downstream!
I like boats of all kinds, and I like harbours and marinas. So that’s where my camera and I head first. My wife has other plans and goes off on her own in the meantime. I stroll along the little footpath by the harbour and cross the bridge to the other side of the river.
All around the large harbour basins, you can see a colourful mix of shops, as well as some lovely apartment blocks, which no doubt also contain holiday flats. I’d quite like to live by the river myself.
Despite the many boats, it isn’t noisy by the water; it’s rather peaceful. In the background, I can see the very pretty old town of Carrick-on-Shannon and its large church.
I stroll through the lovely People’s Park and arrive at the Dock, an arts centre housed in a historic building.
A little further on are the town’s main shopping streets: the colourful façades of the pubs and shops glisten in the sun. Small shops, no big chain stores. Life’s still good here, I think, and I potter on.
Is there any fascinating historical background to Carrick-on-Shannon? Or is the town particularly important in some other way? Perhaps, perhaps not – I really don’t know. But I think the town is simply so beautiful as it is; it doesn’t need to live up to any superlatives.
This is a typical example of a small Irish town that is clearly thriving and, thanks to tourism, is lively enough but by no means overcrowded.
Tradition and modernity, a rural idyll, yet with all the amenities you need; enough money to maintain the houses and adorn the town with flowers and parks, yet modest enough to simply be cosy.
I’ve taken Carrick-on-Shannon to my heart, and if you’re travelling through the Heartlands of Ireland, do visit this little town by the river – I’m sure you’ll like it too.
Conclusion
A trip along the Shannon is a lovely experience. It’s not as spectacular as the west coast, but it has its own quiet, contemplative beauty.
Along the way, you can visit Limerick, the beautiful monastery at Clonmacnoise, the town of Athlone – which lies right in the centre of Ireland – the various large lakes, and, of course, Carrick-on-Shannon.
As well as the small town itself, you can take a trip to Drumshanboo, Sligo, the lakes of the River Erne in Northern Ireland, and Enniskillen.
There are also plenty of lovely places to visit in the immediate vicinity of Carrick. See: https://visitcarrickonshannon.ie/explore/, or also: https://leitrimtourism.com/towns-villages/carrick-on-shannon/.
Have fun by the river!
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Credit for cover photo: View across the harbour at Carrick-on-Shannon (Photo: Ulrich Knüppel-Gertberg)
