On our first two visits to Cork, it didn’t really ‘click’ for me – not at all, in fact. But this time, things were a bit different…
Intro and travel report
The city is big – by Irish standards. With a population of 222,000, it is Ireland’s second-largest city. The traffic when driving into, around or through the city is correspondingly hectic. It’s no fun.
And the city is largely modern. Wide streets, large department shops, lots of people, lots of hustle and bustle, lots of noise, lots of traffic.
And those were my overriding impressions on my first visit, and on my second too: lots of noise – about nothing…?
But our first two visits had also been very brief, so we probably hadn’t given the town a proper chance. We wanted to do better this time.
Whilst we’d driven into town by car on previous occasions, I didn’t want to do the same this time with the motorhome.
So we parked the big car in a large car park on the outskirts of town and took the bus into town – what a relief!
The double-decker bus takes us right to the centre in complete comfort. Incidentally, the centre is situated on an island formed by two branches of the River Lee.
We get off at the northern end of the River Lee, very close to the opera house. As we have different ideas about how to spend our time in the city, my wife goes her own way and so do I.
Saint Patrick Street is a large, wide shopping street with lots of big department stores, and it leads deep into the city centre. Noisy, hectic, bustling – not really my cup of tea.
But it’s interesting in its own way, because on this lovely, warm day, people are out and about, feeling very relaxed and positive. I walk past the colourful hustle and bustle, past colourful façades and façades that have seen better days. There are a few historic buildings, but most are modern – and so, unfortunately, not necessarily beautiful.
A little further on, at the Grand Parade, I pop into the English Market. This covered market, dating from the Victorian era, is certainly one of the city’s major attractions.
Quite rightly so, I think. It’s great fun to wander through the stalls with their specialities, sip a coffee and watch people shopping.
Things get a bit narrower on the other side: narrow city centre alleyways, which I follow for a while until I reach the southern bank of the River Lee: the Grand Parade curves along the riverbank here. There are lovely squares with benches and several small bridges crossing the river.
One of them takes me towards Saint Fin Barre’s Cathedral, whose tall spires can be seen from a distance.
Incidentally, this isn’t the cathedral with the colourful houses in front of it that you see in so many photos on social media. That one is in Cobh, Cork’s harbour town. We’re not by the sea here, but in the city centre, by the River Lee.
Next to the cathedral, Elizabeth Fort stands defiantly on a hilltop. The fort dates back to the 17th century and, from the outside, looked out over the walls of the medieval town.
The walls have since disappeared, as has the medieval town, but the large fort still stands and is open to visitors. The same goes for the cathedral, though unfortunately it was closed when I arrived.
So I had a bit of a look around the lovely cathedral gardens and then went for a stroll along the riverbank for a while. Idyllic!
There are green oases in the heart of the big city, and there are always lovely spots to discover.
Passing the beautiful Holy Trinity Church, we head back onto the island and through the narrow streets of the old town to the bus station.
My wife enjoyed her stay in Cork this time – and so did I.
Conclusion
It’s worth leaving your car at a Park & Ride car park on the outskirts of town and taking the bus into the city centre. That way, you avoid the stress of city traffic and having to look for a parking space in the city centre.
The city centre has many different sides to it: there are the bustling high-street shopping areas and there are the quiet, traffic-free side streets.
The English Market is a must-see, but I also really liked the banks of the River Lee to the south. Just explore the city however you like. You can find all the information on places of interest here: https://www.corkcity.ie/en/things-to-do/attractions/.
It’s important to allow plenty of time. A few hours is the minimum; a whole day can fly by too. We really enjoyed the city because we had time and peace and quiet to simply explore the areas that took our fancy.
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Credit for cover photo: On the River Lee, looking towards Cork Cathedral (Photo: Ulrich Knüppel-Gertberg)
