Is that an ‘appropriate’ way of expressing myself for a reputable travel blog? It doesn’t really matter, because, firstly, this is my blog (and that’s how I talk) and, secondly, the north-west of Ireland really is ‘cool’. The same goes for the town of Donegal….
Intro and travel report
We are back in Donegal once again. The town of Donegal, and also the county of the same name, Donegal. But this article is about the small town that gave its name to the county.
It isn’t even the administrative centre of County Donegal – that’s Letterkenny. But it’s more interesting to tourists than Letterkenny. Why? Because it’s absolutely lovely, because it has a small castle, because it’s by the sea, and because it’s cosy yet cosmopolitan.
This cosmopolitanism also brings it a fair bit of tourism, but as the little town is a manageable size, the tourism remains manageable too.
There is a spacious car park at the harbour. There are also pitches where motorhomes are allowed to stay overnight. During the day it gets quite ‘busy’ there, as coaches park there too.
But at night it’s pleasantly quiet, so we gratefully took advantage of this option with our motorhome on two occasions: once on our way to the far north-west of the island and Glenveagh National Park, and again on the return journey.
From the harbour, it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the town centre. If you’re travelling by car, you’ll find plenty of hotels, B&Bs and Airbnbs in and around Donegal. You should book these well in advance, though, as this little town is popular with travellers.
For many, it marks the turning point of their Wild Atlantic Way journey. This is because travelling further north-west or even all the way round the island of Ireland takes more time than many realise beforehand.
This is down to the narrow roads, but also to the many beautiful peninsulas you can visit along the Irish west coast.
All those little detours take up a lot of time. But it’s so much nicer to explore one part of the island in depth than to rush round the island on the main roads and miss out on the most beautiful spots altogether.
For many travellers on the Wild Atlantic Way, Donegal is either the first stop from Dublin or the last stop before Dublin. And it’s a perfect place to stop, as it’s another little gem in its own right.
Let’s ignore the many colourful pubs and souvenir shops for a moment and take a leisurely stroll around: at the very end of the harbour, there’s a place waiting that I’ve only just discovered myself: the Old Donegal Abbey.
Although the 15th-century Franciscan abbey is now little more than a ruin, its location is unique: the ancient walls gaze stoically out over the beautiful estuary of the River Eske into Donegal Bay.
The abbey’s old cemetery is home to many beautiful Celtic crosses, and scattered along the shores of the bay are a few cottages and detached houses. What a place to live!
I take in the view for a while longer and then carry on. I make my way through the city centre, across the Central Square with its triangular (!!!) layout, past Donegal Castle and back to the River Eske. The river flows around the old town centre in a semicircle before emptying into Donegal Bay.
It’s pleasantly quiet by the river. The hustle and bustle of the city centre is behind me. I catch sight of the castle’s large tower and a few battlements rising above the river.
Colourful houses lining winding roads follow the bends of the water, and I follow the narrow road. A small bridge, a little church on one side, two more churches and further bridges on the other.
You can certainly go for a stroll here for a while, enjoy some time to yourself and let the sights sink in. But staying too long gets a bit boring, so on we go: another little gem that I’ve only just discovered is the Railway Museum.
Small narrow-gauge railways once served the little towns in the countryside and their inhabitants. You can see a few of these gems in the lovingly curated museum. It’s just a few minutes’ walk from the river and definitely worth a visit.
After this rather quiet start, I take a stroll around the castle, having a look at the church and the beautiful old buildings in this area. The Olde Castle Bar is certainly a sight to behold!
In a little side street, I come across a charming coffee shop where I enjoy a lovely lunch and, of course, a good cup of coffee. Both are just what I need, as the sun is shining warmly today and my circulation could do with a bit of a boost.
At the triangular square, I treat myself to a delicious ice cream and even find a shady spot to sit. The colourful hustle and bustle of life flows past me and I’m simply content.
But the peaceful scene is deceptive, because cheeky seagulls have their sights set on my ice-cream cone and are just waiting for a moment of inattention to snatch it away!
A good five minutes of intense vigilance later, the danger has passed. Why don’t I feed the seagulls? There are so many of them, and if one gets something, twenty more will want some too – total chaos!
As is usually the case, my wife doesn’t join me on my photo walks, but goes off to do her own thing in the meantime. She comes back just as happy as I am, and we agree: we’ll be back – Donegal Town is simply brilliant!
Conclusion
I can highly recommend not only the little town of Donegal, but also County Donegal itself. This region in the far north-west of the island of Ireland is beautiful and borders Northern Ireland, which also has plenty of stunning landscapes and charming little towns to offer.
Just a short distance west of the town, you’ll find the Cliffs of Slieve League. These are the highest cliffs in Ireland – they’re actually higher than the much better-known Cliffs of Moher.
A little further west lies the lovely village of Glencolumbcille. The scenery there is breathtakingly beautiful, and there’s a lovely little open-air museum – the Folk Museum – which you really must visit.
To the east of the town lies Lough Eske, a lake beautifully framed by mountains, where you’ll also find some lovely places to stay.
As far as I’m concerned, the coastline in the north of County Donegal is among the most beautiful the island has to offer – and that’s saying a lot! Azure-blue water meets white sandy beaches – you’d think you were in the Caribbean.
And for walkers, Glenveagh National Park is a dream. At the National Park Visitor Centre, you can find out all about the mountainous region, which is very reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands.
Right in the heart of Glenveagh National Park, situated on the beautiful Lough Beagh, you’ll find Glenveagh Castle, a stunning residential castle with gorgeous gardens!
And if you simply want to explore the north-west on your own, you can’t go wrong, because Donegal is simply brilliant! That goes for both, by the way: Donegal Town and Donegal County…
More interesting articles for you
Coming soon…
Cover photo credit: In the harbour at Donegal Town (Photo: Ulrich Knüppel-Gertberg)
